Portland Japanese Garden

The Portland Japanese Garden is known as the finest Japanese garden outside of Japan. After spending two hours exploring this serene garden, I believe it's totally worthy of this accolade! 

There are so many exquisite settings, including the enchanting Moon Bridge overlooking the Strolling Pond Garden, and the traditional Pavilion that opens to a Flat Garden with soaring city views.

The new Cultural Village is also a highlight. I couldn't resist browsing the authentic Japanese items in the gift shop, or indulging in the sweets and pastries at the cafe.

The Portland Japanese Garden is easy to get to, just 10 minutes west of downtown Portland in Washington Park. Check hours & tickets.

History of the Portland Japanese Garden

I'm really fascinated by the turbulent history of the Portland Japanese Garden, that fortunately ended in reconciliation.

It all started with a desire to strengthen ties beween Portland and its sister city of Sapporo Japan, after the devastation of WWII. It was felt that a new Japanese garden in Portland would be the ideal way to mend the relationship. A site was selected at the old Portland Zoo in Washington Park, and The Portland Japanese Garden opened to much excitement in 1967.

The design of the garden was in the hands of Professor Takuma Tono from the Tokyo University of Agriculture. He was considered one of the best landscape architects in Japan at that time, and that's why you see such an authentic garden.  He hired his pupil, Kinya Hira, to do plantings over four years from 1963 to 1967.

I wish I could tell you that everything ran smoothly from here, but unfortunately Kinya Hira was subjected to racist taunts and even a stabbing. Anti-Japanese sentiments persisted, and Kinya vowed he would never return to Portland. Fast forward to fifty years later in 2017, and Kinya finally returned to Portland for a dedication ceremony at the new Cultural Crossing Center.

10 best things at Portland Japanese Garden

1. Walk uphill to the spectacular entrance at the Nezu Gate.

I love the anticipation of walking up-hill through a wooded pathway, and catching the first glimpse of the Cultural Village at the Portland Japanese Garden. It's a vigorous walk, and takes about 5 minutes. The alternative is to ride the shuttle that leaves near the ticketing area at the main parking lot.

This is the shuttle leaving the main ticketing area.

I passed through the Antique Gate before beginning the walk uphill to the Portland Japanese Garden.

The path leads to the Umami Cafe at the Cultural Village, towering over the ravine.

I then passed the Cultural Village, and entered the traditional gardens through the beautiful Nezu Gate.

2. Visit the stunning Cultural Village.

I first visited the Portland Japanese Garden years ago, when it consisted of just the historic garden. I remember thinking that although the garden was magnificent, it needed a central gathering place for visitors.

Fast forward to 2017, and I was very impressed by the opening of the Cultural Village, constructed at a cost of $33.5m.  The Cultural Village kicks the experience up to a whole new level, and adds so much more atmosphere.

It's fun entering the central courtyard, surrounded by four modern buildings that house the Concierge Desk, Umami Cafe, Japanese Arts Learning Center, and Garden Gift Shop.

My eye was immediately drawn to the living roofs at the Cultural Village, and the man-made stream to capture rainwater run-off.  It's all about sustainability! 

There's also regular pop-ups outside the Concierge Desk, like this bakery kiosk. 

Here's the village from another angle.

I found a lovely selection of plants on the Bonsai Terrace.

3. Stop by the Portland Japanese Garden gift shop.

I'm always on the look-out for unique gifts, and ended up spending 45 minutes inside the gift shop at the Portland Japanese Garden.

The thing that's so unique about this gift shop, is that these products are usually only available in Japan. I was spoiled for choice, including silk screen scarves, sake cups, kokeshi dolls, origami paper, candles and incense. The items were high quality and beautiful.

4. Enjoy tea and light snacks at the Umami Cafe.

Of course I had to spend some time at the Umami Cafe at the Cultural Village. It has an enchanting setting at the top of a ravine, with glass walls that take in the forest views. There's also a wrap-around deck outside, with tables for two people.  

The menu was small and more geared towards a light snack. There were traditional sweets and pastries, light fare like miso soup, and hot and cold teas from the Jugetsudo tea company in Japan. Kids will enjoy the flight of 3 Mochi ice-creams, in chocolate, green tea and mango.

The Flat Garden dazzles in all seasons, with a spectacular laceleaf maple and weeping cherry tree. It's one of two dry gardens at the Portland Japanese Garden, that utilizes elements like gravel, sand and rocks to represent natural landscapes.

7. Find solitude at the Sand and Stone Garden.

The Sand and Stone Garden is the other dry garden, hemmed in by stone walls. This traditional Japanese rock garden highlights the impermanence of life, through the continual raking of the sands.

8. Walk around the Strolling Pond Garden.

The Strolling Pond Garden features Upper and Lower Ponds connected by a stream.

This is the Upper Pond at the height of summer.

Here's another look at the Upper Pond, with glimpses of koi. 

The moon bridge is visible at the edge of the Upper Pond.

Cross the beautiful moon bridge and walk towards the Kashentei Tea House.

The zig-zag bridge is on the Lower Pond, and is full of giant koi!

Irises bloom here during early summer, but unfortunately I was too late in the season to see them.

9. See an authentic tea house at the Tea Garden.

The Tea Garden also includes an authentic Kashentei Tea House, constructed by master craftsmen from Japan.  Check the events page at the Portland Japanese Garden, to see when the next tea ceremony is taking place.

10. Venture into the wildest section of the Portland Japanese Garden.

The Natural Garden is the most untamed section of the garden. It's lush and shady, with dense undergrowth and a cool creek meandering down the hillside. Make your way down the stone steps along the mossy slopes.

I spent a lot of time in quiet contemplation in a seating area at the bottom of this garden, overlooking a waterfall that flowed into a pond. It was definitely one of the most peaceful corners of the garden, and incredibly relaxing.

11. Visit the lantern-lit garden during the October Autumn Moon Festival.

One event I would highly recommend is the October Autumn Moon Festival. Watch the harvest moon rise over the horizon, as you sip Japanese tea and listen to traditional music, and watch the garden bathed in ethereal light from the illuminated lanterns.

Know before you go

• Portland Japanese Garden Address: 611 SW Kingston Avenue, Portland, OR 97205.
• Entrance:  0.2 mile walk uphill from the lower parking lot.  Visitors can also be shuttled to the top.
• Hours & admission: check here.
• Cafe: yes.